If you would like to see what work we have done, check out our Backglass Blog of past work (or just look at the list of glasses we’ve done at the end of this page.) Note we do NOT restore slot machine glass, so please don’t ask. Or if the glass is too damanged, we can re-do the entire glass. Using this technique, much like shown by Alan Lewis, we can repair an original glass. It looks like much like silk screening, and back lit, it does have a slightly different look (our new process starting March 2013 is nearly identical in “look” to silk screening.) Note we do NOT print to a translite – our process bonds right to the glass. Then the artwork is re-printed either in its entirety or sections onto the original glass (or new tempered glass if doing an entire restoration.) Note this isn’t silk screen, it is a digital process. Once in the computer, we correct the flaws and missing artwork that has been damaged due to time, wear, scratches and delamination. This involved scanning in the original artwork. Wondered about your thoughts on it.At we restore and repair the artwork on pinball backbox back glass score glasses. I like the simplicity of the traditional American design, but I feel this one would be better for capturing specific rotations, particularly avoiding a switch on drains through the spinner. Kind of an interesting design I had not seen before. Funny, I was looking underneath the PF to adjust it. I noticed this has the same spinner mech as my Combat. Noticed they kind of went with a more GTB like flipper on this? Wondering if there is a story there? I read about some Zacs with a jones plug for a WMS chime unit? Particularly the biri-biri, I mean, no matter what you do with wav trigger boards or chimes, that feature MUST be maintainedĪlso, assuming these are all 4-tone sound boards, is it just Bally and Stern that had 4-chime mechs? or would you lose a tone or double up. I went from really disliking it, to a degree of appreciation. The sound I found grew on my very quickly. I have a lot to learn about euro pins still. Kind of reminds me of a Mata-hari - jumping jack baby. Thinking of bypassing it and using Gottlieb chimes instead. Without the correct 12v output you may have the power failure active.įorgot to update with completed Queen’s Castle! Will have better pics later but overall turned out beautifully. Your HV is damaged, one or both 2N3440 are dead and you are going to kill your displays if you don't fix it.īetter you compare the resistors values in the HV area with the schematics, sometimes the are dead too and this may kill the 2N3440 again. Is the watchdog stuck on? (Forget if it pulls it low or is +5) Looking at the results the High Voltage and 12v are off where they should be.Īny guidance is greatly appreciated as looking forward to getting this machine working. TP7 is also showing a high signal when tested with a logic probe.Īs a starting point do I need to rebuild parts of the Power Supply Board. TP1 - 198v - Tested this again later and it was showing 220v although display was disconnected so may be to no load The voltage at the test points on the Power Supply Board had a couple of points that looked out of spec and I was wondering would this cause the Power Failure to stop the machine booting. I have tested the voltage from the transformer and they all looked ok. I am looking to see if this is due to the power supply board or potentially the CPU. Hopefully someone can help with this one as I am new to working on Zaccaria's and have a Magic Castle that will not boot.
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